Archive for » 2009 «

Dec
06
Asia ~ South Korea ~ Busan

Last week I decided to swing by my travel agent in downtown Fukuoka to see if they had any deals for travel to South Korea, as it is so close to Fukuoka, and I’ve never been. When I found a deal that included the return trip on a boat, and a night in a hotel that was cheaper than just the boat trip, I decided to grab it. As a result, 24 hours later I was speeding across the Korea Straight towards Busan on the JR Kyushu ‘Beetle ‘ hydrofoil…

As per normal, I had the normal issues travelling… Got to my local bus stop to see the bus leaving, even though I was 5 minutes early… Raced to get the bus, but it wasn’t until halfway to town I realised I had left my alien registration card (my Japanese ID card) at my apartment. They made a big fuss of it when I left Japan last time, but I decided I didn’t have time to go back and get it… Then the bus, which was supposed to go to the bus terminal (so I could change to a bus headed for the port) stopped at the station, and said it was going no further! Turns out when I raced for the bus earlier, I had jumped on the earlier bus, not the right one that went all of the way, so I had to try and find the bus terminal on foot. Everyone I asked didn’t know where it was, cos I was ages away from it… Finally found the correct bus stop and got to the port terminal, where I went through emigration with no issues – the girl asked for my ID card, but when I said I’d left it behind, she was fine with it. I suspect that if I hadn’t of spoken Japanese, there would of been problems.

The JR Kyushu ‘Beetle’ hydrofoil is a very small ferry that takes 3 hours to make the crossing between Hakata (Fukuoka, Japan) and Busan (South Korea). We were warned to keep our seatbelts on because they often “have to swerve quickly to avoid whales and dolphins”. I kept my eyes peeled, but didn’t see any. Did see a very interesting lighthouse as we were leaving Japan that was bright red and decked out as Santa for Christmas (complete with white beard and all).

Beetle Ferry

See the boat at the back (it says BEETLE)? That's the ferry that we crossed international waters in, only 3 hours, but still, it's tiny! The ferry at the front is the international overnight one from Shimonoseki (only 1 hour from Fukuoka).

When I mentioned to my Japanese friends that I would be heading to South Korea for a night, I asked them what there was to do in Korea – everyones response was “Shopping and food”, so I headed to Busan with a list of markets to find and foods to try. On arrival, I headed for the main train station, where I jumped on a double decker tour bus, which proceeded to take me around the city for only ₩10,000 (approx $10 AUD). I jumped off at Haeundae Beach to get some lunch (time to start crossing of the “food list”!). Surprise, surprise, at one of the most touristy spots in town I ended up munching down on good ol’ Aussie burgers, not a Bimbimbap restaurant in sight. Wandered around the area for a while (saw the Fish Car – a small car near the aquarium that has been turned into a fish tank, with large colourful fish swimming through the steering wheel and gearstick).

Fish Car at Haeundae Beach

Fish Car at Haeundae Beach

Checkin to my hotel was quick and easy – upon discovering I spoke Japanese, communication went from haltering English to fluent Japanese. Helps of course that I was staying in the Japanese part of town, in a Japanese hotel, but still much better than attempting to communicate in my non existent Korean (but perhaps my next language to learn?). My day finished up with a Korean barbeque for dinner, recommended by my hotel as “cheap and delicious”. And they weren’t joking, at only ₩12,000 (approx $12 AUD) for a huge amount of quality beef, kimchi and beer. They didn’t bat an eyelid when I came in on my own (despite Korean barbeque being a shared dish), and the owners mum helped me sort out the barbeque. I have never had real Korean barbeque before, it is eaten quite different in Korea compared to Japan – a long piece of beef on the barbeque was cut up into pieces (by the amused owners mum when she realised I had no idea what I was doing), and then dipped into sauce. Kimchi is added (all of the various bowls around the table are kimchi) on top, and then eaten. And, if you’re like me, and the owners mum is amused by you, she will put all of this together for you and basically spoon-feed (chopstick-feed) you!

Korean Barbeque

Korean Barbeque

On my second/last day in Busan, I headed out to fulfill my shopping component of my list. Busan is famous for it’s Jagalchi Fish Market, but having been to the world’s largest fish market in Tokyo, I wasn’t particularly interested in seeking out this one. Despite my intentions, I ended up at the fish market whilst trying to find another market. The fish market was surprisingly clean and not too smelly, and I saw plenty of interesting sights, including tanks upon tanks of sea snakes, and octopus’s making a run for it in the street. I eventually found the Gukje market, but didn’t buy anything, as I’m going to China soon, and much of the stuff at the market was similar to the things I usually see in China. Had bimbimbap for lunch (another tick on the “food list”) at ₩4,000 (approx $4 AUD), which was much spicier and tastier than other versions I have eaten in Japan and Australia. My day ended with me wandering back to the ferry terminal, where I caught my speedy boat back “home” to Japan.

I’ve just begun to start thinking about my Christmas shopping, how’s everyone else going?!

Dec
05

Staff were friendly and helpful, didn’t speak a lot of English, but spoke fluent Japanese. Rooms were clean and spacious (bed in the single room was actually a semi-double bed). Location was great, about 5 minutes walk from the ferry terminal, and a 10 minute walk to the main train station. Fantastic and cheap Korean Barbeque restaurant up the road (ask the staff). Free internet and breakfast were a great plus.

Nov
30
Asia ~ Japan ~ Fukuoka & Beppu

Once again, blogs have been few and far between, whoops. It’s been a month of accomplishments with my Japanese – I can now do many things in Japanese that I never before had the ability or courage to do: order pizza delivery over the phone, direct a taxi driver to my apartment, make travel arrangements with a travel agent and more. Most of these things are activities I never even had the opportunity to do in English, in Australia – I live in the sticks, so getting a taxi home, or getting pizza delivered has never been an option. I’m finally beginning to really function over here!

Gyoza at the gyoza restaurant in Hakata

Gyoza at the gyoza restaurant in Hakata

My friend Jen from home has been visiting me for the past two weeks, and it’s been a blast. I’ve taken her around to do plenty of things around Kyushu, including clubbing in Fukuoka (stumbling home at 7am after spending all night at “Happy Cock”, all you can drink for 2000 yen, who can go past that?!), horse races in Saga (where you go not to watch the races in Saga, but to bet on the races in Kyoto!), temples in Dazaifu (students are starting to cram, the temple was packed!), a home party drinking cocktails and eating oden in Kurume (and laughing the night away with crazy cousins!), bali style onsens in Chikushi (Jen’s first onsen!), sand onsens, hostels and “hell valley” in Beppu (natural bubbling colourful pits of sulphur water, reminiscent of what hell may look like), souvenir shopping at the many 100-yen shops in Fukuoka (and then finding a post office that will accept the 100-odd kg of souvenirs that Jen bought!) and shopping and watching movies at Canal City in Fukuoka (New Moon has FINALLY come out in Japan!).

Students tying their fortunes up at Dazaifu

Students tying their fortunes up at Dazaifu

Matt’s headed off on his next adventure – he is now in Taiwan looking for a job, leaving me in Japan all on my own… Never fear, with my newfound pizza (and sushi, curry, hotpot, Korean, Indian etc etc) ordering abilities, I think I should survive. Throw in the attention of my host sister and cousin (I have an accessible apartment in the city, a big bonus on a Saturday night when trains stop at 11:30pm! This Saturday night is the first I haven’t been out till 7am, and it was only because Jen was leaving early Sunday that I was excused!) and my other Japanese friends.

At the Moomin cafe in canal city. If you're lucky, Mr Moomin himself will come and sit at your table to help you drink your gingerbread hot chocolate (which is easily the best hot chocolate I've ever had, and so it should be at $8 a cup).

At the Moomin cafe in canal city. If you're lucky, Mr Moomin himself will come and sit at your table to help you drink your gingerbread hot chocolate (which is easily the best hot chocolate I've ever had, and so it should be at $8 a cup).

Now it’s back to work, sorting out my parents itinerary for when they rock up in two weeks time. We’ll be hiring a car (eek!) and traveling a bit of Kyushu before heading to Kyoto & Osaka for a couple a days, and then heading to China on the ferry. Just call me Travel Agent Bobbi!

Oct
31

Well known in Fukuoka as the best gyoza restaurant in the area, this family owned and run restaurant serves the best dumplings I’ve ever eaten. Walk in, and you will be asked “How many people”. Indicate with your fingers how many people you have in your party and you’ll be lead to a table. Not much English is spoken here, but the staff knew to point to the picture of gyoza on the menu, there are plenty of other dining options too. If you order gyoza, you will be provided with a small dish to mix your own gyoza sauce – there is a squirty bottle of standard dumpling sauce, a small bottle of chili oil, a small dish of yuzu paste and a small dish of chili paste. Mix up your desired sauce, tasting as you go. I highly recomend the yuzu (an Asian sour citrus fruit) sauce, it adds an extra omph! to the meal.

Menu
The menu here is all in Japanese, but the staff here know what you’ve come for, so it’s not too difficult. The number one dish here is the gyoza (a small moon shaped fried Chinese dumpling), but there are plenty of other options too. The following are some of the dishes I remember.
  • ぎょうざ (Gyoza) – these small fried dumplings are amazing. Come as a serve of 8, the staff recommend two serves per person if you’re not getting anything else, 470 JPY per serve.
  • ポテトサラダ (Potato Salad) – one of the other main dishes, 520 JPY
  • 手羽先の煮 (Chicken Wings) – another popular dish, 310 JPY per piece
  • 令やしトマト (Cold Tomato) – a delicious dish of cold, slightly salted tomato and cabbage
  • おきゅうと
  • もろきゅう
Oct
24

This cute restaurant is tucked in the corner of the restaurant floor of the Fukuoka Bus Centre. Walk in, and you will be asked “How many people”. Indicate with your fingers how many people you have in your party and you’ll be lead to a table. The waitress will then place a “menu” on your table – a receipt type piece of paper that lists everything in Japanese. Look below for translations (but be aware that the copy in the restaurant is purely Japanese!). Point to what you want, and they’ll start cooking it. You can watch your dinner being cooked over at the grill. If you order okonomiyaki, it will be bought to your table already cut into squares. Top with your preferred amount of okonomiyaki sauce and mayonnaise, and dig in!

No English is spoken here, but everyone is really friendly, the food is fabulous and cheap, and you can get a drink with your meal, perfect.

Menu
These are my translations, the menu at the restaurant is purely Japanese. Take note of what you’d like – I’ve set it out the same as the restaurant copy, so you should be able to point to what you want. All of the items on the left hand side are okonomiyaki – the Japanese “as-you-like-it” pancake, a thick savory pancake made of predominately of battered cabbage. My favourite is the corn/egg version, but they’re all great!

Name Price Name Price
デラックス (Delux) 1,100 JPY 焼きそば (Yaki Soba) 550 JPY
ミックス (Mix) 850 JPY “大盛 (large serve) 650 JPY
肉玉子 (Meat/Egg) 600 JPY 焼きうどん (Yaki Udon) 550 JPY
イカ玉子 (Squid/Egg) 600 JPY “大盛 (large serve) 650 JPY
エビ玉子 (Prawn/Egg) 600 JPY 焼きめし (Fried Rice) 550 JPY
チーズ玉子 (Cheese/Egg) 600 JPY “大盛 (large serve) 650 JPY
コーン玉子 (Corn/Egg) 600 JPY 肉野菜いため (Stir Fry) 550 JPY
肉 (Meat) 550 JPY “大盛 (large serve) 650 JPY
イカ (Squid) 550 JPY 御飯(小) (Small Rice) 550
エビ (Prawn) 550 JPY ビール(中)(Beer) 500 JPY
チーズ (Cheese) 550 JPY コーラ (Coke) 200 JPY
コーン (Corn) 550 JPY オレンジ (Orange Juice) 200 JPY
玉子 (Egg) 450 JPY ジンジャエール (Gingerale) 200 JPY
ヤサイ (Vegetable) 400 JPY